Comments on: A remote controlled RGB light bulbs lamp

By: admin

admin — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 15:04:01 +0000

Almost forgot : yes, cardboard is not a great installation material for definitive layouts ! Regular lamps are the one to be selected in such case. The circuit MUST be encased in metal or plastic, either case any metal part (i.e. the case if metallic) the user might touch from the outside of the case must be grounded properly. If using plastic case, use plastic screws as well.
Ciao
5Volt

By: admin

admin — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 14:59:19 +0000

Thank you all for your appreciation. Yes, this is a dangerous project as is everything that works on 220Vac. The caveats at the beginning should be quite clear !
The modification suggested for a future revision are absolutely good.
For the TRIAC any 400Vac 3-4 Amps model should be sensitive enough to be driven by the micro. The capacitors on the ac side must be rated for 400Vac minimum, the resistors are 1/4W or 1/2W power dissipation. The rest of the parts should be on the schematic. In doubt, just ask.
Ciao

By: Tuckie

Tuckie — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 03:40:22 +0000

do you have a partslist for this project? (mainly the opto –> lights side of things) I’m looking for a good way to dim some lights for some Halloween effects, and this looks like it will fit the bill.

By: Brett

Brett — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 18:45:49 +0000

A couple idea for a future revision (if any).

1) Move the IR receiver to RB0 (pin 6) This frees up RB6 and RB7 for firmware updates (the LED on RB6 can be left as-is.) You don’t really need the interrupt on RB0, but it might be handy for decoding the received data.

2) With a crystal timebase, the controller should be able to very accurately determine the mains frequency. Measure the period between rising edges. This would eliminate the jumper on RB1, and could be used for RS-232 control through an opto-coupled input.

3) There is a configuration bit that disables MCLR as a reset input. (See MCLRE CONFIG – Vpp input is not affected.) This frees RA5.

4) C4, R1, D7 are not required. ESD clamp diodes on the controller inputs will limit voltage excursions beyond Vss-Vdd as long as the current is limited (by R8 in this case). RA1 can be used as a digital input.

By: thijs

thijs — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 07:07:30 +0000

Please, don’t put those bulbs in a cardboard box! I really like the project, but to keep it safe, you really shouldn’t put those fairly hot bulbs in a flamable box!

By: miked

miked — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 01:49:42 +0000

>Dimming the lights cannot be done via PWM as >LEDs are. The lamps must be phase controlled…

Phase control is a type of PWM, so they actually are dimmed via PWM.

By: A remote controlled RGB light bulb lamp - Hack a Day

A remote controlled RGB light bulb lamp - Hack a Day — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 00:30:51 +0000

[...] just got a lot brighter by using 3×60Watt flood lights instead of an LED. The bulbs are driven via TRIACs and the whole thing uses a remote control to [...]

By: shefali rai

shefali rai — Wed, 24 Sep 2008 18:23:23 +0000

is this project really dangerous.

By: Electronics-Lab.com Blog » Blog Archive » A remote controlled RGB light bulbs lamp

Fri, 19 Sep 2008 08:11:45 +0000

[...] A remote controlled RGB light bulbs lamp – [Link] [...]

By: Dainaccio

Dainaccio — Sat, 19 Jan 2008 16:44:27 +0000

Very nice !